Eastern Marine Outlet Blog » Boating Topics

Boater Safety Certification is easier than ever

daves — Mon, 09 Feb 2009 19:27:28 +0000

I remember taking the local Boater Safety Course back in 1980 (or thereabouts) in preparation for the initial season on my first boat. The instructor was Hilton Wright who was a longstanding member of the DE Coast Guard Auxiliary. He taught the course in his official Coast Guard uniform and it was somewhat intimidating. It was much more difficult than I expected at the time and there were quite a few sections that had a “hands-on” component like Marlinspike. I actually had to study the manual to pass the course and attain certification.

Today, it is so easy to prepare for and take the course from the privacy of your own computer if you are in a state that offers the online program. The company is ‘Boat ED’ and their website is boat-ed.com. They customize the course to accommodate each state’s boating laws. Forty-two of the fifty states have this service for boaters through this company. On the East Coast, DE, FL, GA, MD, NC, RI, SC, and VA offer the online certification. East Coast states that do not offer this program are ME, MA, CN, NY and NJ.

The course is broken down into an outline and you can move from topic to topic to study the content (over several days in my case). At the end of each topic is a review so you can get a flavor of the real test questions. Some of the topics have visual graphics so the viewer can see precisely what is being taught.

When you feel you are well prepared you can take the test. The test consists of 60, multiple-choice questions. After I took the course, I marched through the questions post haste. The fee is $24.50 and you only pay if you pass and get your certification.

Most states now have requirements for new boaters to take their Safe Boating Course. I strongly recommend that all boaters take the course, even if it is a second time. If you need to renew your DE Boat Registration or purchase a DE Fishing License stop by our Newark, Delaware Showroom (Click Here for License Info.)

Replacement Boat Seating

daves — Fri, 30 Jan 2009 19:44:12 +0000

One of the many things overlooked for replacement on fishing boats is the seating. There are several reasons why replacement may be desirable. Corrosion, functionality, damaged upholstery or cosmetics all can play into a decision to replace your boat seats. Another reason is if the purpose of the boat changes.

For example, if a dual console boat that has been used primarily for water sports is going to be used as a fishing boat, changing the seating can make a big difference in enhancing the layout to be more suitable. Standard Back-to-Back seating that may be original equipment on this boat is comfortable, but takes up a lot of space. For fishing, storage space and an uncluttered cockpit are desirable features.

There are many options available to optimize your boat seating. Small aluminum boats, like Jon boats, typically are sold with just the built-in bench seats. These can be very uncomfortable on long fishing trips. The solution to this problem is to select a Folding Style Boat Seat to be installed on top of the metal bench seat. This seat is padded and comes complete with a swivel to make for a more comfortable boating experience.

On larger fiberglass boats, like the Center Console, a pair of pedestal mounted Captains Seats will certainly improve the layout of the cockpit for fishing. Another alternative is to add a Swing-back Cooler Seat. This style uses a molded marine cooler as the base of the seat with padding on top. A padded swivel backrest is added which allows the operator to be facing either toward the bow or astern. Obviously, the cooler can be used as dry storage, a fishbox, livewell or for keeping sandwiches and drinks cold without taking up additional space.

To keep your newly installed boat seats in top-notch condition, consider using a seat cover. This will protect the upholstery from the damaging rays of the sun.

There are many seating options available to improve the seating layout of your fishing boat. Eastern Marine Outlet carries Springfield Captains chairs, Moeller Swing-back Cooler Seats and Action Products Folding Boat Seats and accessories. Check out our entire selection at EasternMarineOutlet – Boat Seating

Choosing the proper Boat Cover

daves — Wed, 14 Jan 2009 19:59:52 +0000

There are several features that have to be considered when selecting a boat cover.

1) Durability
2) Breathability
3) Sun, wind and rain proof
4) Trailering
5) Fit to a particular boat style

Currently, polyester or polyester blend fabrics are the most durable materials to use as a boat cover. Look for a cover with a decent warranty that will cover material and workmanship for 3 – 5 years.

The polyester fabrics also allow air to pass through the material, which helps prevent mold and mildew, a scourge for boaters.

Obviously, the main purpose of the boat cover is to keep the elements off your boat. The polyester fabrics are tightly knit and also treated to be rain resistant, UV resistant and resistant to the effects of the wind.

Trailering a boat with a cover is the same as subjecting the cover to 60 MPH winds for extended periods of time. The cover must to be made of good material (polyester fabric) with good workmanship on the seams and hems and tied down properly. If not tied down properly, the cover will succumb as if it has been through a hurricane. Therefore, a good cover will have numerous tie down points.

The boat cover you select should be designed fit to your style of boat; Bass Boat, Center Console, V-Hull, Inboard, Outboard, Cabin Cruiser, etc. The cover should be designed to go on easily but still have a “snug” fit. Excess material is harder to tie down and therefore more exposed to the effects of wind. The cover you select should be within 1 foot of the measured bow to transom measurement for your boat.

Important measurements are boat length, beam, outboard or inboard/outboard, windshield height, bow rail height and whether or not there is any extending equipment (bow pulpit, trolling motor) on your boat that could affect the fit of your cover.

The covers we recommend for most applications are the RIPTIDE series from Wolf Marine. They meet all the above requirements plus have a reasonable warranty. Wolf Marine has always honored reasonable warranty claims.

Choosing the right boat cover for your needs will help protect you vessel and keep it looking good for years to come. Check out our Cover selection online at: EasternMarineOutlet

How to Winterize a Boat Battery

chrisb — Tue, 11 Nov 2008 22:00:40 +0000

With hunting seasons under way and warm breezes giving way to chilly winds, boat-owners are facing the task of adding stabilizer to the fuel tanks, fogging the engine and tying down the tarp or boat cover.
But according to the DieHard Battery Company, many boaters are not aware that winterizing also includes taking care of their boat’s battery. Failure to do so usually means a spring trip to the boat dealer or automotive supply to replace a battery that no longer holds its charge.

To help boaters get the longest, service from their marine cranking and deep cycle batteries, DieHard has provided step-by-step recommendations for winterizing the heart of a boat’s electrical system.

“First off, wear old clothes because you’ll be working close to battery acid, which can burn a hole in clothing,” they said. “Protect your eyes. And, for safety’s sake, mix a solution of baking soda and water [50-50] and keep it nearby so you can use it to neutralize any acid spills.”  To winterize your boat’s battery, follow these simple steps:

Disconnect your marine batteries and remove them from the boat and from the elements.
Inspect the cables and connectors. Repair or replace them now, if necessary, not in the spring when the fish are biting.

Clean and brush the cable connectors with a wire brush, removing the crusty corrosion buildup. Coat the connectors with white grease to help maintain good contact between the connectors and batteries.
Wire brush the battery posts to remove the white, crusty material. Coat the terminals with white grease or petroleum jelly to help ward off the effects of corrosion.

With a disposable rag, wipe the crud, dirt and grit from the battery cases.

Dip another rag into a neutralizing solution of baking soda and water, half-and-half. Wring out the excess fluid and wipe down the battery cases.

Check the battery acid levels. Add distilled water or de-ionized water, as required, to bring electrolyte levels to within one-eighth of an inch of the bottom of the vent well, or one-fourth of an inch from the bottom if the battery is discharged. Don’t overfill, or sulfuric acid can escape out of the vents. Don’t use tap water or well water, which may contain chlorine, iron or salts that will harm the battery.

Recharge your batteries. Wear goggles and old clothes. Do not overcharge. Excessive overcharging causes electrolyte loss and the interior plates to shed their active material, reducing capacity. Never charge a frozen battery. Always charge in a well-ventilated area.

Cold-weather charging requirements make a strong recommendation for the use of a “smart” battery charger equipped with a microprocessor capable of recharging each battery according to its own particular needs.

Store batteries in a cool, dry and well-ventilated place, far away from the furnace. Make sure they are out of reach from kids and pets. A temperature of about 50 degrees is ideal. Your garage is fine for storage as long as the temperature inside doesn’t dip below freezing. A frozen battery is a dead battery. Never try to charge a frozen battery.

While your batteries are stored, they’ll slowly lose their charge. Check them monthly. Restore water levels, then bring the batteries up to a full charge if needed.  A charged battery lasts longer than a battery in a discharged state. Maintenance-free gel cell batteries follow the same winterizing routine except you cannot add more electrolyte. Do not overcharge a gel cell battery or charge it too quickly. If you do, the gel in the battery can heat up, dry out and pull away from the lead plates.